The best cookbooks to gift or be gifted, according to our food editor
Cookbooks are being released at a rate of knots, bringing fresh inspiration to cooks everywhere. While new ideas are always welcomed, there are of course some tomes that we reach for time and again, that follow us from house to house and show their age through torn covers and oil-splattered pages.
These are the best cookbooks from the last century or so, filled with recipes that we know will never fail us. Every household should have these cookbooks on the shelves, they make excellent Christmas, birthday, wedding and housewarming gifts. There are the absolute classics like Elizabeth David and Julia Child that everyone should have on their shelves, alongside modern essentials from Delia Smith, Nigella Lawson and Yotam Ottolenghi, and best sellers based on successful restaurants such as Hoppers by Karan Gokani and Moro Made Easy by Sam and Sam Clark.
Of course, you'll also find one pot wonders for weeknight inspiration, Indian and Asian inspired recipe collections, dinner party worthy recipes, dedicated veggie and plant-based recipes book, and comfort food go tos. This is a round up of the best cookbooks that will inspire you in the kitchen for years to come.
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Our food editor's picks
Bao by Erchen Chang, Shing Tat Chung and Wai Ting Chung
This is a strikingly aesthetic debut cookbook-cum-manifesto from London’s cult Taiwanese restaurant group founders. Bao began with three art and design graduates serving Taiwanese steamed buns from an East London food stall which led to multiple award-winning London restaurants, each representing different interpretations of Taiwanese culture. The chapters describe each restaurant’s unique concept of ‘think food, serve design’, starting with the ‘holy grail’ recipe for their soft, fluffy, steamed BAO buns filled with Classic shredded pork, Fried chicken or the genius Horlicks ice cream; a witty riff on the Italian brioche filled with gelato. There’s recipes for Bao Bar Fitzrovia’s signature Beef cheek nuggets, Glazed tofu and pickles from Bao Grill House in Borough, comforting and moreish Dan Dan tofu noodles from Bao Noodle Shop in Shoreditch and comfort food like Lu Rou Fan pork rice as well as clever fusion cocktails like Melon sour with white miso and Somerset apple eau de vie. This isn’t a book for the amateur cook but it’s worth owning as a beautiful object and as inspiration into the delicious world of Taiwanese food.
Recipes from BAO's Erchen Chang
Moro Easy, by Samantha Clark and Samuel Clark
When the phenomenally successful first Moro cookbook by husband and wife Sam and Sam Clark was published over 20 years ago, the spices and flavours of North African, Spanish and Eastern Mediterranean swept into our kitchens. Now several more books and two more restaurants later, Moro Easy brings us more of their inspirational recipes, bursting with colour and flavour but simplified for quick and easy results. Conceived during lockdown when the Clark’s restaurants were closed and cooking meant three meals a day for their family, these recipes speak to the home cook. There are chapters for toasts, salads, one pot dishes and desserts: simple ideas that look and taste impressive once assembled, but are easy to make like ‘ceviche, pomegranate, lime, avocado’ or ‘Turkish eggs with tomato, feta and dill’, there’s even a ‘coffee and cardamom ice cream’ that doesn’t need to be churned. Colourful graphics are interspersed with Susan Bell’s beautiful photographs of dishes and evocative scenery, providing images that provoke a both sense of escapism and give context to the recipes. - Blanche Vaughn
Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many, by Jeremy Lee
These are recipes that sum up a lifetime of experience in the kitchen. Jeremy Lee has spent decades cooking in some of London’s iconic restaurants - Bibendum, Alastair Little and The Blue Print Cafe before settling at Quo Vadis where he remains the darling of London’s food scene. Lee’s inimitable writing style and infectious enthusiasm provides tales of purveying ingredients to cooking techniques (everything from pastry, pies, profiteroles and potatoes) and recipe inspiration, culminating in a classic that deserves a place on every shelf. Fish are charmingly described as ‘shiny darlings lifted from the deep’ and potatoes as ‘earthy delights’ in chapters arranged by ingredient: artichokes, blood oranges, impromptu suppers, soup, walnuts and so on, with jaunty illustrations by John Broadley. The recipes are comforting, seasonal and reliably good - ‘chestnut, bacon, bean and pumpkin soup’ or ‘plum compote and apple tart’ this is home cooking at its best. The famous smoked eel and horseradish sandwich from the menu at Quo Vadis is included as are dishes, as are musings on everything from breakfast porridge to cocktails. - Blanche Vaughn
Rambutan: Recipes from Sri Lanka, by Cynthia Shabmugalingam
Shabmugalingam’s debut book precedes the opening of her first restaurant in London’s Borough Market this month. With recipes inspired by her North Sri Lankan roots, the book tells the story of “an immigrant kid” living in London cooking the dishes that connect her to the vibrant markets, sun drenched lush landscapes, and spice infused food that she has left behind. Illustrated with beautiful photographs by Alex Lau of Shabmugalingam’s homeland evoking a culture of families, farming and food. Back in her British kitchen, mainstay ingredients like potatoes, carrots and kale receive a Sri Lankan makeover, clothed in spices, carried by coconut sauces and spiked with curry leaves. From hopper pancakes to avail curry, tempered fried potatoes and Jaffna slow cooked lamb, the recipes combine both old and modern Sri Lankan dishes, steeped in a history of cultural influences, stories retold from a London kitchen. - Blanche Vaughn
Rice Table, Korean recipes and stories to feed the soul by Su Scott
Su Scott, a Korean born food writer living in London married to an Englishman, shares a personal collection of recipes from her Korean roots. This is a story of immigrant motherhood, raising a Korean-British child and passing on the food culture of her Korean roots. Scott introduces us to the sauces, seasonings and spices of Korean cuisine, charmingly describing it as ‘making friends with the ingredients’. With the tool kit of flavours under your belt, you can transform familiar vegetables, meat and grains into homestyle Korean dishes. There are small plates for sharing, like charred cabbage with Gochujang vinaigrette or Soy glazed aubergines. The recipes for pickles and kimchis are much easier to make than you might expect and good additions to other plates like Korean fried chicken, rice dishes and noodle soups. Clean, simple photography by Toby Scott gives the recipes a sense of lightness and approachability, wherever you’re from.
The River Cafe Look Book, Recipes for Kids of All Ages, by Ruth Rogers, Sian Wyn Owen and Joseph Trivelli
“Cooking is about surprising connections” write the authors of this innovative, modern, colourful and visual new cookbook from London’s famous River Cafe restaurant. The soft binding allows the reader to thumb through the colour steeped pages like a flip book, displaying photographed dishes and corresponding “images that speak to them”. A dessert of smooth raspberry sorbet faces a photograph of a vintage pink perspex telephone while on another page, the colour of slow roasted tomatoes with basil is mirrored by a photograph of a car body dripping with bright red paint. Over 50 delicious and simple recipes are printed on brightly coloured pages with a contrasting shade text that literally jumps out through its juxtaposition. Mathew Donaldson’s playful photographs provide a witty and modern aesthetic: giving the visual effect of scrolling through a brilliantly curated instagram recipe feed or flicking through an art magazine. The pared down simplicity of the recipes for pizza, pastas, dolci and more are fun to make with kids and tempting enough to serve to adults. Cooking should be fun and sensory and this book ”involves all of your senses. Above all it involves your imagination”. - Blanche Vaughn
Bake it, Slice it, Eat it, by Tom Oxford and Oliver Coysh
The Exploding Bakery, a cult cafe, wholesale bakery and shop opened in Exeter in 2011. Joint founders and bakers Tom Oxford and Oliver Coysh take a maverick approach to the fancy world of decorated cakes, promoting ingredients and flavour over complicated techniques. Their ethos, which shines through this book, offers “stripped back baking: no faffing around with fancy decorating, just a dedication to texture and flavour in one tray.” requiring minimum equipment for easily sliced cakes. Starter level recipes begin with ‘Raspberry and white choc Bakewell tray bake’, then as the book progresses there’s a nod to healthier options with ‘Sesame orange and fig slice’ and ‘flourless cherry and pistachio cake’ as well a touch of foraging in ‘sea buckthorn cheesecake’ and a reference to their location with a recipe for ‘Devon apple cake’. This book doesn’t expect you to spend hours baking and demystifies the processes that can intimidate. There’s something for everyone: short recipes, good ingredients and a touch of foraging - all baked in a tray. - Blanche Vaughn
Indonesian Table by Petty Pandean-Elliott
Award winning Indonesian chef and writer of multiple cookbooks, Petty Pandean-Elliott gives us not just recipes but also a history of Indonesian culture through its food. As much as a reference guide as a cookbook, filled with beautiful landscape photography of the islands, maps and glossaries of ingredients. There are recipes for much loved and familiar dishes - laksas, satay sauces, beef rendang and nasi goreng, as well as quick ideas like Sweetcorn fritters with chilli sambal, Turmeric coconut rice or Grilled pineapple with coconut milk to infuse your cooking with some Indonesian flavour. Even if you only cook a handful of recipes, you will feel you have travelled and explored these fascinating islands.