Less than two square miles in size, the tiny island of Procida, Italy is one of the loveliest hidden gems off the rocky Italian coastline. A historic place with a deep sense of community, Procida has always been known for its independent spirit and flamboyant ways, perhaps best chronicled on screen in the 1999 film The Talented Mr. Ripley. (However, despite its major motion picture screen time, Procida has largely remained untouched and untrodden by tourists – however, with its recent nomination as Italy's centre of culture in 2022, this will soon change, we imagine). With its stunning coastline, pastel buildings and friendly, fabulous locals, Procida is one of the most special places on Earth – and we've created an insider's guide to help you navigate your first journey there.
How to get to Procida, Italy
The only way to reach Procida is by sea, either on sailboat or ferry. Just 45 minutes from the coast of Naples, a trip to the island is not as long or arduous as trips to Ischia or the Amalfi Coast can be. As Ischia and Procida are incredibly close – just 22 minute's journey between the two – island hopping between Ischia and Procida is possible, and ferries between the islands run daily.
- Naples: Calata Porta di Massa, 80133 Napoli
- Procida: Via Roma, 80079 Procida
Staying in Naples
As the most efficient (and essentially only) way to reach Procida is from Naples and its port, it makes sense that you will be spending at least a few hours in the city. To stave off haggardness whilst in transit, we'd recommend staying in Naples for an overnight; it is a glorious, complicated city worth exploring. Each time I visit Naples, I usually opt to stay in the vibrant Quartieri Spagnoli at the Relais Della Porta bed & breakfast. Its interiors are luxuriously pared-back, reminiscent of Naples' former Bourbon royal family. For food, I always leave room for an entire round of saucy, crispy and cheesy Neapolitan pizza – so make sure you do, too. (As Naples is the birthplace of pizza, it would be nothing short of sacrilege to not take part in such a glorious cultural tradition.) My favourite pizzerie are L'antica pizzera da Michele (the site of Julia Roberts' button-bursting dining scene in the film Eat Pray Love) and Pizzeria La Notizia. Grab a late night Campari spritz at Tandem bar and in the morning, pick up a sfogliatelle and cappuccino from the iconic Scarturchio bakery and café before heading to the port to catch your ferry to Procida.
Naples addresses to know
- Relais Della Porta, B&B, Via Toledo, 368, 80134 Napoli
- Tandem, bar, Via Giovanni Paladino 51, 80134 Napoli
- L'antica pizzeria da Michele, Neapolitan pizzeria, Via Cesare Sersale, 1, 80139
- Pizzeria La Notizia, Neapolitan pizzeria, Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53, 80126
- Scaturchio, bakery and café, P.za S. Domenico Maggiore, 19, 80134
STAY | EAT | DO
Stay
As tiny Procida was for many years without a steady stream of tourists save for holidaying Neapolitans, there is very little accommodation on the island. There are a few key inns we'd recommend, all tried and tested (and loved) by House & Garden.
Run by an artistic Procidan couple who for decades ran the island's library, literary and philosophical societies, this tiny B&B is the perfect getaway for a couple or solo traveller hoping to spend a few days living simply – and well – by the sea. Newly opened, this is likely the first of what will soon be many accommodations of Vi.Ta's clean, smart nature – so get in before the in-crowd does and book your stay.
Via Simone Schiano, 9, 80079 Procida
vitaprocidarooms.it
Set back just a few feet from the warm waters of the Gulf of Naples, Maresia is an ultra-mod beach holidayers dream. With contemporary rooms and a laid-back atmosphere, this is one of the most idyllic spots on the island.
Via Garibaldi 33, 80079 Procida
maresiaprocida.it
Just a few minutes' walk from Procida's centre, this humble, 8-room inn is a quiet island haven. Rooms are simple but comfortable, perfect for a no-frills holiday spent mostly by the sea. Cala Cala's restaurant, too, which serves guests a lovely Italian breakfast, is excellent.
20 Via Santo Ianno, 80079 Procida
calacalaprocida.it
Eat
Procida, a fisherman's island, has always been full of modest trattorias and fritterias serving some of the freshest catches you'll ever have. In recent years, young Neapolitans have especially embraced Procida and its simple ways of life, opting to open up more modern restaurants and bars specialising in local cuisine and wines.
There are few fine dining options on Procida; however, if you're in the mood to splurge (and take in stunning views), La Lampara is an excellent choice. Serving traditional local fare – including an incredible lemon and fish pasta – and southern Italian wines, prepare to be wowed. Just be sure to make a reservation ahead of time, as the restaurant is tiny and locals tend to flock to La Lampara every night during the summer months.
Via Marina di Corricella, 88, 80079 Procida
Fritterie, the Italian equivalent to an English chippy, are a staple of the Neapolitan culinary landscape. Assafà has taken this tradition and added modern flair: there are different, homemade aïolis, their battered fried anchovies are a bit lighter than those you'd find in Naples and their fresh, raw fish options are always stellar. Note that Assafà is takeaway only; so take your cone of fried fish with mayonnaise and lemon over to the fountain in the piazza, or order a glass of wine to pair with your meal under the awning of the local caffè-bar just behind it.
Piazza dei Martiri, 2, 80079 Procida
When passing L'unico, you might do a double take of confusion: are you really on the tiny island of Procida, or have you somehow been transported to a chic wine bar in Rome? Indeed, L'unico is one of the best spots for light bites, sharing plates and, of course, great local wine. Hosts are friendly and informed, and passionate about Procida and its history. Open late (and sometimes with gigs from Italian bands), this is one of the best options for the mid-twenties plus set looking for some evening fun.
Via S. Rocco, 82, 80079 Procida
Tucked away in a converted chapel is the Bar del Castello di Esposito Federico, whose tables are a bit further up the steep, rocky hills past the Santa Margherita Nuova monastery. Your table will be met with truly breathtaking views across Ischia and a sparkling blue sea – and, of course, great food. Order at the bar and a helpful waiter will bring your fare. Order the traditional lemon salad a Procidan staple during the summer months composed of ‘bread lemon’ rinds, chili flakes and olive oil (do pack a Tums with you – the acid can get to you, but it's worth it).
Via San Michele, 80079 Procida
Do
The island of Procida is small, however, there's plenty to do. Indeed, the island holds just enough activities perfect for a great beach holiday, from hiking and swimming to boating and strolling.
High up in the hills of Procida sits the crumbling Santa Margherita Nuova monastery, which dates back to the 15th century. The church itself is full of relics and the views from its stepped terraces overlooking the Amalfi Coast are magical.
The Marina di Coricella is one of the loveliest promenades in Procida. A small crest on the corner of the island, each building is painted a bright, pastel colour and many a bar, restaurant and shop are tucked away inside. Enjoy the squawking of seagulls and gruff murmurs of Italian fisherman as you sip on a Campari spritz and nibble on homemade taralli from the local bar.
One of the best ways to see Procida is on the water; luckily, a few enterprising fisherman have started their own pleasure boating business and will take you around the island, stopping anywhere you may desire. Fishermen Cesare and Elio are excellent hosts whose information we'll include below; however if you decide to hire a boat from another fisherman, do be sure to ask up front for pricing and know if they do or do not take card (although even if at first they say they do not, many do) to avoid disappointment or a soured boat ride.
Cesare (+39 333 4603877) and Elio (+39 379 1268849) can be found at Via Marina di Corricella, 74, 80079 Procida.
