The best things to do in Paris, according to a former tour guide

Ah, the City of Lights! Is there anywhere more enchanting? Full of charm, romance and vitality, it is difficult to picture a city more perfect. Paris is the epicentre of culture, the birthplace of couture, a true hub of modern history. Around each cobblestoned corner there is always something new to see, do or eat, which can make the creation of the ideal itinerary a formidable challenge. We've rounded up our favourite things to do in Paris, whether you're a first-timer seeking out the classics or a seasoned veteran looking to mix-up your holiday. Do mix and match our recommendations and tailor them to your interests – bon voyage!

Heading to Paris soon? The warmer summer months bring a certain sparkling beauty to Paris – as well as a font of great things to add to your itinerary. From art exhibitions centring on everyone from McCartney to Manet to Warhol and Basquiat to picnicking on the beach-ified shores of the Seine, here's what we'd suggest you add to your itinerary for the perfect Parisian summer holiday.

Basquiat X Warhol: Painting Four Hands, Fondation Louis Vuitton

Serving as a follow-up exhibition to the Fondation Louis Vuitton's Jean-Michel Basquiat solo retrospective in 2018, the Basquiat X Warhol: Painting Four Hands exhibit promises an even further deep dive into the works of Basquiat, focussing on his collaborative works made with his friend, mentor and fellow artist, Andy Warhol. The exhibition will present over 100 of the 160 works the two men created together, as well as a showcase of individual works (some of which have yet to be publicly shown, borrowed from private collections) made by Basquiat, Warhol and other contemporaries, including Keith Haring and Kenny Scharf. The exhibition promises the same electrifying excitement that permeated 1980s New York, the monumental period during which Basquiat and Warhol flourished as artists.

Until August 28; fondationlouisvuitton.fr.

1997 Fashion Big Bang, Palais Galliera / Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris

No matter what's on, fashionistas and culture vultures will want to make their way to the opulent Palais Galliera museum, which houses Paris' museum of fashion. However, the museum's current primary exhibit, 1997 Fashion Big Bang, is a must-see. The exhibition focusses on the major fashion moments and iconic pieces made in the year 1997, oft-considered by fashion theorists to be one of fashion's most impactful years in the past few decades, delving into the socio-economic impact of the year's runway shows and trends (and their impact on the former), as well as the important contextualisation of the current fashion landscape. The exhibition features over 50 silhouettes from the museum's collections, as well as loans from collectors and major fashion houses from Jean-Paul Gaultier to Thierry Mugler to Stella McCartney.

Until July 16; en.parisinfo.com/paris-show-exhibition.

Manet/Degas, Musée d'Orsay

For the first time since the grand salons of the 19th century, two of the foremost painters of the Impressionist Era, Édouard Manet and Edgar Degas, will have their paintings displayed in tandem. Their works, whilst usually compared for their similarities in both subjects and within the context of the 1860s-80s art world, are contrasted in this exhibition, the differences in the artists' training, temperaments and opposing tastes in both literature and music on full display.

Until July 23, musee-orsay.fr.

Fête de la Musique, throughout Paris

Each year on the evening of the Summer Solstice, the longest day of the year and the official start to summer, Paris comes alive, its streets filled with partiers dancing to the sounds and rhythms of the hundreds of musicians and bands roaming the streets. Dance to a New Orleans brass band's cover of ABBA's Dancing Queen before finding yourself in awe of a troupe of twirling flamenco dancers, clacking castanets in hand. Restaurants and cafés stay open late into the night, with many selling bottles of champagne and wine to be enjoyed on-the-go. (Insider tip: start in the Marais on Rue Saint Antoine, and follow the hordes of singing, dancing and laughing Parisians to the Canal Saint Martin, where the party will keep going late into the night, well after the fat lady has sung her last tune).

On June 21, from early evening well into the night.

Chopin Festival, Bois de Boulogne

Lovers of classical music will be keen to head over to the Bois de Boulogne park in western Paris to hear the tinkling keys of many a piano, each playing pieces from the composer Chopin's masterful oeuvre. The event attracts some the world's most renowned pianists, too, making this an unmissable musical event.

From June 17 to July 14; en.parisinfo.com.

Les soldes d'été (“summer sales”), in stores across Paris

Fashionistas and shopping enthusiasts alike will know the value of a good sale. In Paris, the fashion capital of the world, these sales only come but twice a year, in both summer and winter, and, believe me, they are worth the wait. Across Paris, department stores and clothing shops slash the prices on everything from tweed blazers to linen trousers to baguette bags. (Insider tip: for designer pieces, I'd recommend exploring Paris' classic, iconic department stores: le Bon Marché, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. For über-chic pieces from local or lesser-known brands, head to the Marais neighbourhood (4e arrondissement) on the Right Bank and the Saint-Germain-des-Près neighbourhood (6e arrondissement) on the Left.) Happy shopping – and bonne chance!

From June 28 to July 25.

Paris Plage, along the banks of the Seine

The sounds of lapping water, a tickle of wind in your hair, the swaying of the canvas beach chair… No, you're not on a remote beach island, far, far away: you're seated in a Ville de Paris-provided beach chair along the banks of the greenish-blue Seine at the ‘Paris Plage’ (the Paris Beach). After applying a healthy glob of sun cream, grab a crêpe and Aperol spritz from one of the many vendors lining the cobbled ‘beach’ (I'd recommend Food Breizh at 31 Quai Anatole France, 75007) and picnic Seine-side under the brilliant French sun, watching Paris go by.

From July until September.

Perfect for… first timers

Lucky you – your first holiday to Paris! A city packed with culture, great cuisine, fabulous shopping and endless opportunities for wandering, it can feel a tad overwhelming when planning your itinerary. How to fit in everything? But fear not: we've put together an essential guide to Paris to help, no matter if your trip lasts a week or a weekend.

Paris is a sprawling city, its streets lined with every shop imaginable. While window shopping is always a fun occupation, it's good to have a few destinations on the itinerary. We've chosen just a few of our favourite spots we are sure to visit whenever we're in town.

Le Bon Marché

The modern concept of department stores was invented in Paris, so what better way to immerse yourself in the city's history than a trip to the gargantuan Bon Marché? Carrying everything from designer shoes to homewares, the Bon Marché has it all. Depending on the date of your visit, too, the main hall features different artist installations, with themed stalls selling limited-edition wares. Happy shopping!

Address: 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007

CityPharma

You may be surprised to find a pharmacy on this list, but CityPharma is not your average drug store. No, it is a mecca for all things skin and haircare, with every French beauty product under the sun scattered throughout its four floors. Stock up on lotions, potions and creams – all for dizzyingly low prices – and prepare yourself to get that French girl glow.

Address: 26 rue du Four, 75006

Sézane

Walking the streets of Paris may give even the most well-dressed among us a bit of insecurity because – let's face it – there is that little bit of je ne sais quoi in how Parisians dress that can be difficult to replicate. At Sézane, however, you can grow a little closer to the Parisienne ideal with a lovely Frenchified sartorial souvenir.

Address: multiple, with its flagship at ‘Le Grand Appartement’, 63 Boulevard des Batignolles, 75008

Each day in Paris brings with it a new cultural adventure. While you can't visit everything, sadly, we've chosen a few spots that should make their way onto any first timer's itinerary.

Rue Montorgueil

Less of a single stop and more of a varied destination is the charming, vibrant Rue Montorgueil in Paris' 2e arrondissement. Full of life and crammed with food shops, cafés and clothing stores, this cobbled street is perfect for a leisurely amble as you imagine your second life, baguette tucked under the arm, as a Parisian with a small pied-à-terre tucked under the rafters of a classic Haussmann townhouse.

Address: rue Montregueil, 75002

Musées d'Orsay, du Louvre & l'Orangerie

A trip to Paris would not be complete without visits to its most iconic museums. Depending on the length of one's stay, I'd recommend first-timers visit the Musée d'Orsay for its fabulous collection of Impressionist paintings (and great views over the city), Musée du Louvre for an overwhelming introduction to art history (don't worry, you won't be able to see it all in one trip – another excuse to return to Paris!) and the Musée de l'Orangerie, home of Claude Monet's famous Water Lilies paintings. Luckily, the museums are within short walking distance of the other, making an entire day of art history as easy as can be.

Musée d'Orsay: 1 rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 75007
Musée du Louvre: Rue de Rivoli, 75001
Musée de l'Orangerie: Jardin Tuileries, 75001

Shakespeare & Company

Shakespeare & Company is one of the most iconic bookshops in the world and a bonafide ‘must-visit’ whilst in Paris. Founded in 1951, the shop buzzes with history and creativity. Wander through the crooked interiors and glance at every title under the sun. Upstairs, write a poem and tack it to the cluttered cork board; for the musically-inclined, there is an upright piano ready to be played. After a tour, set up camp at one of the picnic tables outside their lovely café with a coffee and a newly purchased book. Bliss.

Address: 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005

Perfect for… families

Paris is the motherland of shopping, but it's not all high fashion and designer homewares, there's plenty for kids to get involved with too. Take them to the finest children's stores across the city, from stationery shops to high-end children's clothing stores.

Bonpoint

With a plethora of playfully chic pieces for babies, tots and young kids, Bonpoint is perhaps the definitive fashion brand in children's clothing. Jewel-toned tutus and fabulous alpaca pea coats, while perhaps rather extravagant, are fabulous additions to any child's wardrobe. In certain stores, beautiful play areas welcome children with wooden toys and colourful blocks while you browse the lovely collections.

Addresses: multiple, with its flagship at 6 rue de Tournon, 75006

Centre Commerciale Kids

After a quick once over of Centre Commerciale Kids' clothing racks, you'll find it difficult to prevent yourself asking: “Do you have this in my size?”. With a wide range of fabulous clothing of all sorts for boys and girls to choose from, rest assured your child will be the best-dressed in the classroom, no matter their personal style.

Address: 22 rue Yves Toudic, 75010

Papier Tigre

Have a precocious budding writer? Take them to Papier Tigre, a children's stationery shop with a raft of pens, markers and notebooks in every colourway imaginable. While you shop, your children can colour and draw at one of the small wooden activity tables that line the shop.

Address: 5 rue des Filles du Calvaire, 75003

To experience Paris at a young age is such a wonderful gift. If taken to the right spots, children are bound to fall head over heels in love with the city. We've rounded up a few of our favourite spots that mostly avoid massive queues and crowds while still acquainting children with a good dose of Parisian culture.

Jardin du Luxembourg, Jardin des Plantes & Parc de la Villette

The parks in Paris are special indeed. Adults can take pleasure in the winding gravel pathways and smart gardens – and in the many offerings for children's entertainment. Join Parisian parents and their children for a (free!) show in the Jardin du Luxembourg's puppet theatre and on a tour through floral history at the Jardin des Plantes. At the Parc de la Vilette, let your children clamber about with their Parisian peers in the park's expansive playground.

Jardin du Luxembourg, 75006
Jardin des Plantes, 75005
Parc de la Villette, 75019

Musée de la Magie

Adults and children alike will be filled with a true sense of wonder at the Musée de la Magie (the Museum of Magic). With fascinating displays taking visitors through the history of magic and interactive activities at the ready in each era, there's plenty of ways to discover the magic of Paris. Before your visit, make a note of magic demonstrations and puppet shows that may be on – all knockout successes with children.

Address: 11 rue St-Paul, 75011

Basilique Sacré-Cœur

For slightly older children who can tolerate climbing a few steps, the Basilique Sacré-Cœur in the northern neighbourhood of Montmartre is the perfect visit. With its domed ceilings – feats of architecture – and fascinating relics, the Sacre-Cœur will enchant children and adults alike. The views from the basilica's steps, too, are fantastic, the whole of Paris spreading out before you.

Address: 35 rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018

Perfect for… culture vultures

With plenty of museums in the city, you'll never run out of art to view. However, because it's Paris, even the shops transform into museums… we've chosen a few of our favourites for your perusing purposes.

Maison Deyrolle

Taxidermy shop Maison Deyrolle is a true cabinet of curiosities, chock full of history. With the atmosphere of a natural history museum, the walls are lined with stuffed animal heads that peer down at you and glass-encased butterflies fill the display tables that centre the upper rooms. A true novelty shop of the sort rarely seen in our modern day.

Address: 46 rue du Bac, 75006

Galerie Franck Accart

Situated in the glorious Palais-Royal gallery is this unassuming antiques shop, its walls adorned in gilt-framed paintings and drawers crammed with jewels and other vintage trinkets. Spend the afternoon sifting through history, be it on the wall or tucked away in a cabinet… you're bound to find at least a hidden treasure or two.

Address: 29 rue de Richelieu, 75001

Paris is a magical city whose inhabitants over the years have greatly contributed to the sum of arts and culture as we know it. For true culture vultures, we've chosen a few of our favourite, off-the-beaten-path ways to get your culture fix.

Musée Zadkine

Located in the former home of the Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine rests the fabulous Musée Zadkine, which holds the artist's extensive collections, as well as a few pieces from his contemporaries including Brancusi and Modigliani. The museum is a hidden gem in Paris, the perfect place for a brief respite from the bustling city. Enjoy a leisurely stroll through the white-washed galleries and, before heading out, bask in dappled sunlight in the modest courtyard.

Address: 100bis rue d'Assas, 75006

Le Champo Cinema

Fans of French cinema can head straight to the source at this unassuming cinema in the 6e arrondissement. Once frequented by New Wave darlings including Jean-Luc Godard, Agnès Varda and Jacques Tati, moviegoers are bound to feel the cinema's electric energy. For those seeking non-French films, head to the Écoles Cinéma Club down the street at 23 rue des Écoles.

Address: 51 rue des Écoles, 75005

Women of Paris walking tours

Oftentimes, Paris' history is dominated by larger-than-life male figures, from Napoleon to Monet. The Women of Paris walking tour, headed by expat Heidi Evans, seeks to change this narrative. With themed tours highlighting the great women who helped to shape Paris (think Marie Curie, Joséphine Baker and Édith Piaf) in their respective industries, you'll come away with a font of knowledge, heaps of pride and a better understanding of the City of Light.

womenofparis.fr

Perfect for… fashionistas and antique hunters

Some of the best shopping in the world can be done in Paris, so fashionistas and savvy antique chasers will feel right at home. We've chosen a few of our favourite spots to get our shopping – for clothing or home – on.

Printemps

There is a certain joy in one-stop-shopping, especially when it is as beautiful and well-considered as it is in the Printemps department store. Spanning over two city blocks, the recently-renovated megastore has everything from contemporary and vintage men's, children's, women's clothing to homewares and accessories. (Here's an insider's tip: if you're looking for breathtaking views of Paris, head to the top floor, pass through the vintage clothing department and push through the door at the end of the rotunda. You'll find yourself on a balcony once reserved for Printemps executives, now open to the public).

Address: 64 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009

Marchés Clingancourt & Aux Puces

Savvy antique hunters know that Paris is one of the world's best destinations to sniff out the best pieces. At the Marchés Clingancourt and aux Puces, you are guaranteed to unearth at least a few treasures. Whichever marché you choose (Clingancourt mostly sells clothes; at aux Puces, expect mostly furniture and knick-knacks), do arrive early in the morning and steel yourself to haggle – if you do, you're certain to walk away with even more than you bargained for.

Address for Marché Clingancourt: 53 rue Jules Vallès, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Address for Marché aux Puces: 99 Allée des Rosiers 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine

Agnès B.

Any true fashionista's holiday to Paris would be remiss without at least a quick visit to the iconic French fashion designer Agnès B.'s eponymous shop. Here, you'll discover the essentials to dressing like a Parisienne, including chic marinière jumpers and perfect pairs of blue jeans à la Jane Birkin. Depending on which shop you visit (there are a few around Paris), there are men's, homeware and floral offshoots, too.

Address: multiple locations, with the flagship at 6 rue du Vieux Colombier, 75006

Goyard

While there are plenty of designer shops in Paris (it is one of the best cities for them, after all), Goyard is perhaps one of the sole luxury stores whose goods are nearly impossible to track down outside France. Located in Paris' chic 1er arrondissement, join the shop's queue before making your once-in-a-lifetime purchase of a trendy patterned tote bag or stylish wallet.

Address: 233 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris

For fashion nerds and interiors-obsessives, Paris is an exhilarating city to visit. While one can make the case that window shopping is enough to get your fill of the history of fashion and furniture, there are plenty of museums that will further stoke your passion. We've included our two top picks.

Musée des arts décoratifs

Fashion and interiors lovers alike will enjoy a visit to Paris' decorative arts museum. With themed shows often highlighting the many talented fashion designers who set up ateliers in Paris and a fabulous collection, the Musée des arts décoratifs is truly unmissable. If you're feeling peckish after a wander through the expansive galleries, stop for a light lunch in the museum's chic restaurant, Loulou.

Address: 107 rue de Rivoli, 75001

Musée Yves Saint Laurent

A fashion icon, Yves Saint Laurent is said to have changed the course of fashion history. The chic museum allows for visitors to become more intimate with the world of the late designer, taking them through Yves' personal and professional histories, as well as displaying the extensive, beautiful textiles, garments and clothes designed in his atelier.

Address: 5 Avenue Marceau, 75116

Perfect for… the cool kids

With a whole host of vintage shops and concept stores to choose from, it can be daunting to know where to begin. We've selected a few of our favourites to browse during your holiday.

Merci Paris

The original 'concept store', Merci is a must-visit for anyone seeking to be on the cutting edge of what's cool. With a whole host of trendy design objects from sunglasses to skirts to coffee mugs, there is something for everyone. Enjoy the great music and stay for a quick coffee: this boutique truly has everything.

Address: 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003

Come on Eileen & BOBBY

Vintage lovers will find a safe haven in Paris. My two favourite shops, Come on Eileen and BOBBY, are true destinations for fashion lovers and the vintage obsessed. After rooting through the many racks in each shop, expect to discover everything from old-school rocker tees to hot-pants from the 1980s to vintage Chanel tweed. Happy rifling!

Address for Come on Eileen: 16/18 rue des Tallandiers, 75011
Address for BOBBY: 89 rue Réaumur, 75002

While all museums can of course be cool in their own way, we've rounded up the coolest in the city. From fine art to photography to downright history, there's something for everyone, no matter how cool they are.

Jeu de Paume

At the Jeu de Paume, Paris' modern and postmodern photography museum, there's always something good on. Whether you're a fan of photography or simply interested in what's new in art, you are bound to find the best in contemporary art here. Check what's on during your visit but whatever it is, I promise you won't be disappointed.

Address: 1 Place de la Concorde, 75001

Musée Carnavalet

Recently renovated, the Musée Carnavalet tells the story of Paris with thousands of objects that have represented Paris' many faces over the course of its thousand-year history. Occupying two grand hôtels in the cool Marais neighbourhood, the museum is a sprawling marvel. After perusing the many galleries, enjoy a glass of wine and light bite in the museum's perfectly appointed courtyard.

Address: 23 rue de Sévigné, 75003

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Address: 8 Avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, 75116

Perfect for… foodies

The birthplace of haute cuisine is a veritable playground for chefs (or those who are simply aspiring). With a host of specialty shops selling every culinary ware and food imaginable, it can be dizzying to pick which to visit. We've chosen a few of our favourites.

E. Dehillerin

Chefs both professional and domestic will feel like children in a candy shop upon entering the famous kitchen supply store, E. Dehillerin. Packed to the gills with every prop, utensil and culinary accoutrement imaginable, foodies are bound to find the perfect Parisian souvenir, be it a pan or steak knife.

Address: 18-20 rue Coquillière, 75001

La Grande Épicerie

It is difficult to describe La Grande Épicerie. Truly, one must visit to understand it. A mecca for ingredients, food lovers will marvel at the sheer vastness of the Parisian food emporium. Those lucky enough to have a kitchen during their stay in Paris can stock up on hard-to-find ingredients and fabulous cuts of meats, cheeses and fish. Their pastry counter serves some of the best éclairs in the city – made even more perfect when paired with a mug of tea from their extensive collection.

One of the best ways to experience Paris is by eating your way through it. From tours to markets to croissant classes and wine tastings, there is plenty to do. Here are a few of our best suggestions…

No Diet Club Tours & La Cuisine Paris

Looking to get to know Paris well, bite by bite? Consider partaking in one of the city's food tours with the No Diet Club, whose tours centre on the arrondissements and cuisines not often considered by tourists. Eat your way through the Marais or Canal St-Martin neighbourhoods, trying the best cuisine (often not strictly French!) Paris has to offer.

Should you prefer to get your hands dirty, however, consider partaking in a course at La Cuisine Paris, a cooking school which teaches visitors the art of French pastry. Participate in courses ranging from macaron-making to croissant-proofing; whatever you do, you're bound to exit full, covered in flour and very, very happy.

No Diet Club Paris Food Tours
Address for La Cuisine: 80 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004

Marché Maubert & Marché Raspail

It wouldn't be Paris without the farmer's markets. The Marchés Maubert and Raspail (all organic on Sundays!), in my opinion, are two of the best in the city. Amble the market stalls and discover the fresh ingredients behind Paris' best restaurants (you'll often see chefs in their whites examining the produce). Fabulous.

Address for Marché Maubert: Place Maubert, 75005
Address for Marché Raspail: Boulevard Raspail, 75007

Canons & Ô Château

You'd be hard-pressed to find anything more quintessentially French than tucking into a cheeseboard ("planche" in French) and a great bottle of wine. At Canons and Ô Château, prepare for some of the best of both in the city. Canons, a newcomer to the Paris wine scene, hosts frequent tastings and allows you to try a whole range of wines, including natural and orange varieties. Ô Château, too, offers tastings, courses and wine-and-cheese pairing workshops. Sit back, relax and get sipping. Santé!

Address for Canons: 25 rue du Moulin Joly, 75011
Address for Ô Château: 68 Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001